Two days into a three-day amble around Angkor Wat and the surrounding temples. (That means I'm in Cambodia, by the way.) After Thailand it's refreshing to be in a place that hasn't perfected every aspect of providing service to tourists. As friendly as everyone is, it's also a deeply wounded country. But the temples of Angkor are such a momentous, living event, you see them everywhere as Cambodians remind themselves what they're capable of.

Trying to decide about a potential long train ride down to the capital. Triple the length of a bus trip, but you don't get to sit on top of the bus.