Fought my way on to the train in Xi'an (we have assigned seats, people!), stowed my bag, and feel asleep in the middle bunk. Woke up in the desert. Frankly, I feel a bit cheated, was expecting some sort of gradual transition. But I saw camels! I'm not sure I've ever seen any outside of zoos and camel rides at fairs.

Got off in Urumqi, which the guidebook warns is just another Chinese city "with a few kebab sellers." That said, it does feel a bit closer to the end of the earth. Glad I headed this way.

About to follow some helpful directions from another traveller to the Krygz visa office, which hopefully hasn't moved since last May. If it's true that I can get it in three days - and if I can arrange transport across the border quickly in Kashgar - should just make it out without getting jailed by the PSB for overstaying my visa.